My Everyday Makeup Bag

There's a lot of pressure as a hair and makeup artist to try and look well presented all the time. On meeting a new client I know that they (rightly or wrongly) will make a snap judgement on whether they would like me to do their hair or makeup based on how mine is done; and whilst I could be creative and bust out a Smoky Eye or Christmas Glitter, this may actually terrify a prospective client! I keep it clean and simple.

My approach with makeup is that "less is more" and I personally don't like to feel that I'm caked in heavy products. Flawless, healthy, glowing skin is always on the wish list and I think that anything else is just a bonus!

Working on my feet for long hours, I don't often get time to check in the mirror which means I pick products that I know will genuinely last all day. Whilst my everyday makeup products might not all be suitable for my professional kit due to ingredients and hygienic application, they're the best that I've found. You wear your hair and your face everyday and they should be your most expensive item's of clothing!

With professional application there are certainly a few more steps, techniques and products used but for every day, I use the following in this order too:

Primer:         I always wear a primer, every day without fail otherwise I know what little makeup that I have put on, has disappeared by midday. Benefit's Porefessional is an oil free cream that can be used on it's own or as a primer and it helps minimise the look of pores (and fine lines!) and helps foundation glide on super smooth. If my skin is particular dry I'll swap it for MAC's Prep and Prime Skin which is a good all rounder.

Concealer:     I don't always use a concealer (it depends on how whether my skin is behaving!) but if I do it's MAC's Pro Longwear Concealer. It lasts really well and isn't too thick and stodgy like other concealers.

Foundation:     I choose to use Bare Minerals powder for everyday wear as it gives good coverage and because it's a powder it's really light weight. My backup foundation is Illamasqua's Skin Base; it's so flawless I used this on my wedding day and always reach for it if my skin is misbehaving and needs better coverage. Skin Base is really lightweight and doesn't contain SPF which I think makes it feel less oily and greasy....I love it, love love love it.

Eyebrows:      I use Illamasqua's Eye Brow cake in Thunder as it's a great powder that has a nice natural colour. I just use eyeshdow in my kit as honestly I don't think there's any difference in the products; perhaps Illamasqua's is a little more waxy.

Liquid Liner:     Liquid Liner is my makeup trademark, I always wear it and if I don't everyone assumes that I'm ill! I've tried so so so many and my absolute favourite is Collection 2000 Fast Stroke Liner  about £2.99 from Boots. I don't think I'm the only one who know about this little gem either as it's always sold out so I buy multiple when I get the chance! With a foam tip applicator, it goes on smoothly and softly and gives a nice black pigment...and it stays on! Unfortunately I can't use it in my kit as the applicator isn't hygienic and using disposables just isn't the same. I therefore use Illamasqua's Eyeliner Cake  alongside their Sealing Gel. One drop of this product turns any powder into a colour-intense, water-resistant paste that dries quickly and lasts for hours. Perfect as a set gel or sealant, blend with Powder Eye Shadow, Pure Pigment, Eye Brow Cake or Eye Liner Cake.

Mascara:        Benefit's They're Real Mascara is AMAZING. The silicone comb inside does a lot of the hard work admittedly as you can comb through multiple times without it getting clumpy and depositing too much product. It's not technically waterproof but it really doesn't come off and makes your lashes look awesome. I use this in my kit too.

Bronzer:        I tend to blush and bronze after I've done the rest of my makeup so I can see how much I actually need. Once your eye makeup is done it can look a little more dramatic and you may find you need less blush and bronze. I use Benefit's Hoola for bronzing and contour. It's shimmer free, comes with a perfect contour brush and the packaging is cute. I tend to use a contour pallet in my kit as I need a variety of shades but for easy every day "chuck on" application, this is a winner!

Blush:          Whilst this depends on your skin tone of course, for English-Rose type skin, a pretty pink normally works a treat and I love MAC's Springsheen Powder Blush I used to use Pink Swoo but they discontinued it :( 


Like everyone else, I don't have an hour to put on my makeup everyday and actually when I'm up at 5am for a wedding, the last thing I want to be doing is my own hair and makeup so quick and reliable products are a must! Xx

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup

www.vicky-brown.co.uk

Simple Everyday Brows...

There are two types of people in this world...those who "brow" and those who don't...I love love love doing eyebrows and I'm a great believer in brows framing and therefore shaping your face. Some are blessed with amazing brows and really don't need to do much to them but for most of us mere mortals, they need a bit of help; a bit of taming or filling in.

It's important to have your eyebrows shaped occasionally by a professional as it's incredibly easy to get tweezer happy over time and lose the natural shape. Everyone's eyebrows are different shapes and sizes and quite often need filling in due to the thin eyebrow fashion of the 90's meaning that they just haven't recovered and regrown. Threading is the kindest option (it hurts...a lot yes) as it doesn't affect the skin unlike waxing which can leave the skin sore.

If you've got a good shape, you may just need to fill in the brow but if you need to draw a shape, this guide will hopefully help a little but it does take practice and time to work out what you feel comfortable with.
-The eyebrow should start in line with the inner corner of your eye, hold up a makeup brush or pencil to find this point.
-To find where the eyebrow should end, hold up a makeup brush (or pencil again) and line it up from the corner of your nose to the outer corner of your eye and keep this imaginary line going; that's where your eyebrow should end. It's the most flattering angle and draws the eyes upwards and helps open the face and create feminine and large looking eyes.
-Finding where the arch of the eyebrow should be is the hardest part and you do learn overtime. Again, using the makeup brush trick and looking in the mirror directly ahead of you; line up the makeup brush from the corner of the nose up through the pupil of the eye and up to the brow.

Now time to fill in the shape....as with all makeup there's no right or wrong but just make the best of what you have; start out with less and you can always add more.
There are some great starter kits Benefit Brow Zing, Sleek or HD Eye & Brow Palette.
I keep it simple and just use a brown eyeshadow and a small angled brush, I don't actually like the waxy look that some of the kits give and prefer the brows to look as natural in texture as possible.

You can use a makeup wipe or cotton bud to run around the edges of the brow to tidy them up afterwards. I then use a highlighter beneath to help them look sharp and clean (only if I have time of course!) please please please pick something that doesn't have shimmer in it...unless you're going to an 80's party....then shimmer is fine...
When I'm doing eyebrows professionally and for weddings, there's a little more TLC that goes into this process but for a quick everyday look, I use a quick swipe of YSL Touch Eclat. It's not good in photography but for everyday use, it's precise and and easy to use:

Finishing touches are then completely up to you; I like my brows clean and sharp but I think it's important that they look soft at the start as they would naturally would be. You can keep the brows sharp and precise or really just use a light dusting of powder just to add a bit of colour and definition which may be a good option if your natural hair colour is very fair and you're still getting used to the process.

Again, please don't think that I'm saying it's wrong if you do your makeup another way, there's no right or wrong but this is just the easiest way I've found to do quick and easy everyday eyebrows.

Hope you find it useful! Xx

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup

www.vicky-brown.co.uk

Quick Trick Smoky Eye!

I recently posted a blog on Autumn/Winter 2014 Makeup Trends and thought I would show you a really quick and easy way to get the big smoky eye look....nothing professional, just a quick and easy cheat! This technique can be used with darker eyeshadow for an evening look or a much lighter colour for daytime but the principles are the same.

The most flattering angle for the wing of eyeshadow is from the corner of the eye up to the outside of the brow; this angle draws the eyes upwards and outwards and makes the eyes look bigger and feline in shape.

Between getting up close to the mirror with one eye shut and reaching over with an eyeshadow brush, it can be really tricky to get this angle perfect on yourself. A foolproof way of holding this angle is to use a stencil; this can be a piece of paper, a receipt, a magazine page or if you find yourself getting a bit cack-handed...use Sellotape! You may want to do this before putting any of your base on if you're worried about making a mistake or the Sellotape (if you're using it!) pulling foundation off.

Selecting the darkest shade for the outer corner of the eye, press the eyeshadow brush upwards towards the browyet stopping before reaching the brow- don't forget you can always add more so start with less.

When the stencil is taken away it leaves the eyeshadow with a perfect angled edge. Choose a second lighter shade of eyeshadow and apply to the middle section of the eye and a third lighter shade still (if you have time!) and apply to the inner corner of the eye and blend the colours together. If you take the eyeshadow too close to the brow you can clean this off with a cotton bud and add a bit of foundation below the brow to make it look fresh again.

It's now completely down to personal preference how to finish the look. I like to keep the edges sharp and crisp for an evening look, however you may wish to soften them with a clean brush or just with your finger tip for a softer daytime look. In the below image I added a little of the dark eyeshadow beneath the eye using a small brush, followed by liquid liner across the top lashes and a coating of black mascara.

I hope you find it useful and if you have any questions or other looks you'd like help with, please give me a shout!

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup

www.vicky-brown.co.uk

How to Bronze, Blush and Highlight

Confession: I've used to be a blush-a-phobic.

I have rather fair skin but have pink undertones and in moments of extreme heat or freezing temperatures, my cheeks always flush so I could never quite understand why I would want to add more pink! Don't get me wrong; I've known how to use blusher for years. I've been taught how to use it on paper and in practice and I've applied it to clients correctly for years too; but It's only been this year practising makeup for my own wedding that I've finally got it....I really get it! I love bronzer, always have and always will but rather than just coating myself with bronzer in the hope to look tanned and glowing from the non-existent holiday; I now see how blusher, bronzer and highlighter are made to work together.

Excusing the ridiculous faces I've had to pull to demonstrate how to apply it, you can see the difference it adds to skin tone and cheek shape...This is the best and easiest way I've found to teach and demonstrate where to apply bronzer, blush and highlight. Professionally I take a bit more time and use bronzer to contour other areas of the face too but for day-to-day makeup....this is the trick.

Bronzer or contour powder should create the effect of a shadow beneath the cheek bone- think Kate Moss and the hallowed cheeks of the heroin chic look from the 90's! We all have cheek bones... but some are just hiding a little deeper than others so to find where best to apply the bronzer or contour powder you can a) turn your face away from direct light to see where the shadow falls b) pull the silly face that I am doing in the below picture by sucking your cheeks in or c) draw from the centre of your ear down towards the corner of your mouth with the powdered brush.
I use Hula by benefit as it doesn't have any shimmer and is therefore quite natural. You can use bronzer with shimmer in it but it's going to be a little more noticeable.


Once you've mastered bronzer, the blush sits directly above this in a parallel line. Now you don't want streaks of colour so of course you'll need to apply this softly, don't forget that adding more is far easier than taking it all off. Some people apply blusher to the apple of their cheeks- this is when you smile widely and apply the blush to the rounds of the cheek and if this works for you, that's absolutely fine but I just find it a little old fashioned! I use MAC Springsheen or Pink Swoo, both very similar colours but I find they suit my skin tone best. You can use corals, berries or brown shades if these work better for your skin tone.

Highlighter is designed to imitate light and it should be applied to the highest point of the cheek which is pretty much eye socket bone (you can feel this with your fingertips if you're not sure) up to the temple. Highlight can also be used across different areas of the face but again, for day-to-day makeup I don't really have time to do this so best to keep it quick and simple...in-fact I don't always put highlighter on! I'm a fan of Benefit's High Beam or Lancome's powder highlighter.

There's no right or wrong with makeup so if your technique works for you, then that's great but I hope you find this helpful! x

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup

www.vicky-brown.co.uk

Autumn/Winter 2014: It’s Eye Makeup or NO Makeup

Winter is coming…and whilst that’s a great excuse to dig out those oversized jumpers to hide beneath ready for Christmas hibernation; now is the time to dig out those eyeshadows you casually bought 2 years ago and have never worn because this Autumm/Winter, It’s Eye Makeup or NO Makeup!

Use metallic eyeshadows, bold eyeliners, caked on mascara or even whopper lashes….just make sure to do eye makeup. Bold eyes were used all over the catwalks this season used by designers from Burberry to Dior and it’s worth giving it a go as it can really transform your look and compliment an outfit.

If you already wear bold makeup, why not go nude…on the face that is! The one thing that will never   Use a super hydrating face cream before any makeup application to ensure your makeup looks fresh all day rather than drying out. My favourites are Bobbi Brown’s Vitamin Enriched Face Base; rich in feel but never greasy, this oil-free face formula, with Shea is the perfect base and can be used as a hydrating primer before makeup application. For super dry skin, I like Bobbi Brown’s Hydrating Face Cream; this lightweight formula continues to keep the skin hydrated for hours on end.

falter is radiant skin; Spring, Summer, Autumn or Winter, we all want great skin so make sure to look after it as the cold winds set in.

Ultimately fashion’s change every season and there’s no wrong or right with makeup, so if you just want to go for the traditional red lip this Christmas then go for it, it’s a timeless look. Makeup always wipes off thought so don’t be afraid to try something new this winter!

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup

Based in Hertfordshire

www.vicky-brown.co.uk

BaByliss Big Hair...It's my favourite styling tool ever

So I thought it was about time I got round to reviewing my favourite hair tool of all time….ever….I couldn’t live without it…I actually have a spare one in case it ever breaks.. The BaByliss Big Hair.

I’ve mentioned it to many or my brides and clients and I couldn’t recommend it enough. I heard about The BaByliss Big Hair a few years ago from one of my brides and it was honestly life changing…it made me unfaithful to my GHD’s and that’s saying something!

My hair is incredibly curly and frizzy and whilst on holiday that’s great for beach waves, at home I was needing to curl or straighten my hair everyday without fail with my GHD’s…not good for heat damage.  Even when I take the time to blowdry my hair with a round brush, it still doesn’t banish the frizz to produce a salon smooth blowdry but with the BaByliss Big Hair it’s so easy!

There are two sizes of big hair, a large barrel for longer hair and a smaller barrel for shorter hair. I use the large barrel but I bought the smaller one for my mum and they’re both brilliant. The BaByliss Big Hair airstyler has a rotating brush to add dramatic volume and shine. It has three settings to use; stationary and then two rotation speeds for total control. The barrel can rotate in both directions also so no need to worry about being left or right handed or which side of your hair you’re styling.

I start with my hair damp rather than soaking wet, then taking sections starting underneath at the nape of the neck and then working up to and finishing at the parting. (Check out the BaByliss video here: http://www.babyliss.co.uk/new-big-hair-50mm.html) It takes about 15 minutes to dry and style hair in total and it really is so easy to do and no…it doesn’t tangle up in your hair! Make sure you still use some styling products and heat protector, I like L’Oreal Mythical Oil to help add moisture and shine and VO5 Smoothly Does It Lotion.

It’s also great to use just on your parting section if your hair needs a little boost in the mornings. Give it a go and be patient, it might take a few attempts before you get the hang of it. For £45 it’s the best investment I’ve ever made!

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup Artist

www.vicky-brown.co.uk

Makeup on Camera: A Photographers Perspective

It’s your wedding day and it’s so important that you truly feel amazing…and you will! You’ll be surrounded by friends, family and loved ones, you’ll be wearing a beautiful wedding dress and marrying the person you want to spend the rest of your life with; so wedding hair and makeup is just a finishing touch. Choosing hair and makeup styles should be fun and enjoyable and it really isn’t worth panicking about providing you have found a trust worthy hair and makeup artist.

It’s a pet hate of mine when I hear others say that you need more makeup for it to show on camera, as I’ve never believed that’s strictly true. Of course you need the right products; ones that are good quality and that are going to last all day; and you also need the correct application which helps it look flawless…but that certainly doesn’t mean you need to hide behind a mask of makeup.

Rebecca Wedding Photography says “Gone are the days when a lot of flash was used in wedding photography which often washed out the skin colour and tone. These days the natural, relaxed and more fine art photographers use mainly natural light or bounced flash were possible thus capturing a softer real life look.”

As a makeup artist, we are taught to stay clear from using SPF in our products as they can create unsightly grey patches or a ghostly glow. With wedding photography now becoming much more relaxed and documentary style, it means we are less restricted by products so don’t panic too much if you would like to use your favourite product but it still contains a little SPF.

It’s so important that you feel comfortable with your makeup yet still look like yourself; after all you don’t want to give your groom too much of a shock when you walk your way down the aisle!

“I once had a Bride that was desperate for a dewy look but was so worried she would have to wear lots of powder for the photographs so not to look shiny.” Says Rebecca Wedding Photography. “ I told her that it was far more important for her to feel comfortable, confident and beautiful on her day and that is what would show through in the photographs, any shots that looked at all shiny could easily be adjusted with a little Photoshop. There were literally 2 or 3 photos from later in the evening that needed this, in the rest of the photos she looked the glowing, blushing Bride she wanted to be.”

If prone to oily skin or you’re particularly worried about shine breaking through, Lucy Noble Photography recommends keeping some blotting paper with you. Blotting paper is a great way to battle shine without applying additional product and building up too much foundation and powder.

“A professional will ensure your hair and make up looks great from all different angles which is important for the wedding photos!” Says Clare Tam-Im Photography. “If a professional does the hair and makeup, I rarely come across any problems. I have unfortunately seen it where a bride has applied makeup herself or a friend has done it for her and she has to excuse herself multiple times during the day to go and re-apply as it just hasn’t lasted. Brides don't need any extra stress on the morning of their wedding when they should be excited and looking forward to their day, so when their own makeup application takes multiple attempts it can be a bit tense!”

Please please please be sure to help your makeup artist by giving them a great canvas to start on in the first place. Whilst we can work our magic to an extent, please remember that we are not plastic surgeons or miracle workers! I would definitely recommend getting eyebrows shaped, although you’re not trying to look like a different person, it’s important your brows don’t look unruly or lack definition. Look after your skin and exfoliate, drink plenty of water and eat well. Your body and skin reflect what you eat, so get plenty of vitamins and minerals from your vegetables. If you’re getting any facial treatments done, be sure to get them several days before the wedding as skin can look irritated and be sensitive for a few days following.

Lucy Noble Photography recommends to seriously consider the use of fake tan before the wedding day. “I think fake tan is a real risk factor, nearly every bride feels that they would look better if they have fake tan on so as to look nice and brown …but this is not always the case sadly. This goes for bridesmaids too!  Sometimes it can show up very streaky or too orange on camera and sometimes even rubs off onto the dresses!”

So enjoy choosing your wedding makeup, don’t over think it and remain true to yourself and your usual look. You makeup will be fine, it won’t be applied so that you look like a drag queen and you will have a wonderful wedding day!

Thank you to Rebecca, Lucy and Clare for sharing their knowledge!

http://www.rebeccaweddingphotography.co.uk/

http://www.lucynoble.com/

http://www.claretamim.co.uk/

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup Artist

Based in Hertfordshire

www.vicky-brown.co.uk

Wedding Day Skin and Hair Preparation

Wedding Day Preparation.

With less than 2 months to go until I get married, I thought I should share what I’m actually doing myself in terms of hair and skin preparation. There are so many advice pages online and in wedding magazines that it can often be a little confusing!

Drinking Water: Around two-thirds of our body is made up of water and if we’re dehydrated, we start to shrivel up…and so does our skin! I’m drinking lots of water to help flush everything through and keep my skin supple.

Expensive Face Creams: Nope! Just pick your products and stick to them, chopping and changing is likely to upset your skin so if it works for you, stick with it. Simple has a great range of products that are free from fragrance and brilliant for sensitive skin and those on a budget. I have sensitive skin prone to breakouts so I’ve chosen products that are kind, calming and soothing: Elemis Gentle Rose Exfoliator, Elemis Balancing Lime Blossom Cleanser, Elemis Balancing Lavender Toner, Elemis Herbal Lavender Repair Mask. Just chose a range that works for you!

Fruit and Vegetables: Nourish yourself from the inside; simply putting expensive products on your skin isn’t going to fix the problem, only hide it. Your skin needs vitamins and minerals to help cell reproductions. Make sure your vitamin C and zinc levels are good; this will help the absorption of iron and hopefully prevent dark circles under the eyes. I’m trying my best to incorporate a green smoothie into my diet to guarantee I get at least my 5 a day. Make sure it’s vegetable based and not just packed with sugary fruit. I’m also taking omega 3 and a women’s health supplement.

Facials: Nope! I’ve had a few facials in the past as a treat but I’m thinking it’s probably not a good time to go and try something new and invasive, after all I’ve survived this long without! No one will be looking as closely at your skin as you do in the bathroom mirror…and if they are, they’re standing too close!

Spots: Don’t pick at them. It’s much easier for a makeup artist to hide a red spot than it is to try an hide a dry, sore and red picked at spot. Put some witch hazel on or a spot treatment cream and let your body deal with it. Easier said than done, I know!

Cut the out Alcohol: If you get problem skin, this is the most important! Alcohol is full of sugars, toxins and is a dehydrator. Think about how awful you feel after a big night and imagine what that’s doing to your skin. Even if this is only a few weeks before the wedding, it’s best to give it a miss.

Regular Hair Cuts: Ok, so this is where the hairdresser in me and my desperation for long hair battle it out. As a hairdresser I know that whilst having your hair trimmed regularly won’t help it grow quicker, it will keep it in tip top condition meaning that its less likely to break. However, if like me your hair seems to have a finite length and never grows, the thought of getting it cut every 6 weeks is a little terrifying! Just look after your hair in the run up to the day, a few hair masks, lay off the heat appliances and try not to over colour.

Fake Tan: No no no! I’ve seen far too many orange hands, feet and elbows and if you’re wearing a white dress, it WILL rub off! I don’t agree with the long term use of sun beds but I will be a few sessions before the wedding day just to help with the glow. Just go to a proper salon that can advise for your skin type and don’t do this long term.

Contouring Do or Don't?

I’m getting asked more and more frequently whether or not I do contouring and despite it being featured daily in magazines and beauty blogs, contouring has been around for a long time!

Contouring is standard practise for makeup artist and is a technique used to enhance and create shadows and highlights on the face. It’s the same as drawing and shading a still life in art; you’re creating the illusions of depth on a canvas where there isn’t any. This technique can help create define cheekbones or an illusion of a different shaped nose, it’s fantastic.

If however you are after a very natural look or you’re not used to wearing a lot of makeup, contouring probably isn’t for you. Whilst a small amount of contouring can be used in basic makeup application,  the attached pictures of Helen Falanagan and Kim Kardashian demonstrate how contouring can be used to the max!

Check out this great tutorial from the team at Illamasqua to see how it’s done step by step: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1VioAh_FMU&feature=share&list=UUtOMYpk2q87zf2G84AxjvRw&index=2

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup

Based in Hertfordshire

www.vicky-brown.co.uk

Your Herts and Beds Wedding Magazine

It was lovely to be asked to advise on the expert panel for Your Herts and Beds Wedding Magazine this issue!

Q: We're getting married this summer and are having a traditional church wedding as both of our families are quite religious. We are however both quite 'alternative' and would like to to express this on our wedding day. I wondered how we might achieve this through hair and make up - any ideas?

A: It's really lovely that you have decided to do this for both your families but its so important you find a style that you love and feel comfortable in too! A great option could be to have two looks for the day, something classic and timeless for your church ceremony and then something which will appeal to your alternative style thereafter. Speak to your hair and makeup artist about a style that can be easily adapted, perhaps a flash of red lipstick and swapping to an oversized hair accessory will help transform your look? There are some great online stores providing alternative hair accessories and this could be the perfect way to quickly change your look without jeopardising the hairstyle!

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup Artist

Based in Hertfordshire

www.vicky-brown.co.uk

How to Cover Dark Circles Under the Eyes

The skin beneath our eyes is thinner and more sensitive than anywhere else on the face and is prone to dark circles; a giveaway to those sleepless nights, tears and health.

The way to fix this comes down to basic colour theory which we all learnt about in school. Complementary colours are pairs of colours that are “of opposite” to one another; so when dark circles under the eyes have a blue hue to them, we need to neutralise them with a peach coloured pigment.
This is the same reason cosmetic companies for years have produce green tint to help cover redness, it's all about neutralising the problem, not covering it.

Cream Pigment in “Emerge”by Illamasqua is my favourite product in my kit and I’m asked about it so frequently because the results are so effective. This matt, crease-resistant cream, is my must have for tired eyes and I couldn't be without it. The product is blended over dark circles then followed by your usual foundation or concealer on top. There is also Benefit Erase Paste and Laura Mercier Under Eye Perfecter, both also a peach coloured corrector. 



Many cosmetic companies develop under eye correctors which have “illuminators” and too much titanium dioxide in but these have a tendency to just highlight the blue hue rather than neutralising it and can leave you with grey circles around the eyes in photography. The biggest offenders are YSL Touch Eclat and Makeup Forever HD Powder.

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup Artist Hertfordshire

www.vicky-brown.co.uk

2014 Bridal Hair Trends- Knots and Braids

For the last few years we've seen endless loose, tousled hair styles for brides after the more natural and effortless look. With the launch of Pinterest, it has become much easier for brides to find the type of hairstyle they wish to achieve for the day but I've seen a lot of repetition.

Taking inspiration from the bridal catwalk we can see more knots and braids coming in, but "knot" to panic brides, you can still apply these techniques keeping volume, the hair certainly doesn't need to be sleeked back! If an up-do is not for you, these knots and braids can still be worked into down styles too.
Already more braids and twists are being requested in these loose styles with many brides wanting something "different" so don't be afraid to have a play with these ideas at your trial.

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup Artist

www.vicky-brown.co.uk

Growing Your Hair

Isn’t it frustrating?! There are those who dismay over the fact they have to get their hair cut every month because it grows so quickly…and then there those (me included) who everyday desperately will their hair to grow quicker! Here are some tips to help during that awkward stage.

1.  Get a blunt cut

Many people have short hair because they like the volume and thickness that comes from it. I often hear people say that “the ends look straggly” but don’t be afraid to get a blunt cut and take out some of those layers. You’ll lose a bit of the shape but your hair will feel lovely and thick at the ends, making it easier to persevere!

2.  Get it trimmed regularly

As a hairdresser, I know it’s important to get your hair trimmed regularly. It removes the damaged ends and helps your hair stay looking healthy…However, I understand it’s hard to part with that precious half an inch you’ve spent so long growing! You don’t need to get it trimmed every 6 weeks but if you notice the ends looking a bit tatty, explain to your hairdresser that you really do only want the ends off and if they don’t listen, get a new stylist!

3. Ditch the straighteners

We know it’s bad for hair, so try not to use them everyday otherwise you’ll break the ends off just as quickly as it’s growing. Try taking the time to blowdry your hair properly or just put it up; now is the time to experiment with a few quick styles. My favourite option is to hold the hair into a high messy bun and just use bobbi pins to secure it which looks effortless, you can do a little backcombing to help give more volume. If your hair is long enough, try a donut, it’s super quick and easy.

5.  Take a look at your colour

It’s important to speak to your colourist about what products they have chosen for you. Try moving away from bleach if you’re having highlights and selecting a kinder high lift tint. If you colour darker, maybe try a using a toner or gloss to give the illusion of a slightly darker tone without using permanent colour repeatedly.

Why Home Colour can be Bad for Your Hair…

Why Home Colour can be Bad for Your Hair…

Most people know that home colour isn’t great for their hair but don’t know why…so here’s the low-down. Colour services can be pricey but it’s really not because us hairstylists want to make money from you, we’re doing our job by advising what we believe is best for the look you would like to achieve. I’ve personally spent a lot of time (and money!) on my education and I like to think I know a bit more than the back of a box of hair colour!

In a nutshell:

1) The formula is far too strong for most users

2) Application error can cause uneven pigment, over-pigmentation and unnecessary dryness.

How colour works and what the numbers mean…

Colours range in levels from 1-10, where 1 is black and 10 is lightest blonde. There are also variations of tones within these levels such as ash, mahogany, gold, and copper. The tones usually appear after the first number e.g 6.3 is Light Golden Brown or 9.1 Light Ash Blond.

The developer (hydrogen peroxide or bleach) is the agent the transfers the colour from the outside of your hair to the inside of your hair. It ranges in strength from 10-40 volume, 10 volume is the weakest strength and is used to change hair colour by 1 shade, while 40 volume is the strongest and can change hair colour up to 4 shades (generally speaking).

The formula is far too strong for most users

Shop bought colour is designed to work for everyone and therefore it is formulated to be super strong whether you need it or not. For most, colouring their hair a shade or two darker, or covering a few grays may find they are using four times the amount of developer than actually required. This can result in unnecessary dryness and breakage. When visiting a salon your stylist will assess your hair condition, desired shade and existing product; your colour is then mixed to the strength and shade combination required to get the correct result. This isn’t to say that hair colourist’s are magicians! If your hair is in particularly poor condition or over coloured, the stylist may advise a gradual change rather than a complete overhaul.

Application error can cause uneven colour, over pigmentation and unnecessary dryness.

The common mistake is to stick a box colour over the entire length of hair…every time. Layering artificial colour pigment over and over itself again is completely unnecessary and causes over pigmentation. Over pigmentation can make the hair look dull and opaque and therefore appear far too dark in colour. Colour is also really tricky to apply evenly, hence why stylists use a brush and section out the hair. It may be easy to colour the hair that is visible from the front but areas at the back are often patchy or missed all together. This can be a really tricky job to fix and often requires the hair to be stripped.

The main thing to remember is if it comes out wrong, a hair colourist will not simply be able to colour over the top of it. Tint does not remove tint, it often has to be stripped from the hair, the hair re-pigmented and then recoloured; a lengthy and costly exercise!

If you really cannot afford to visit the salon then stick to these rules to get better results when colouring your own hair at home …but it’s still a risk!

1) Pick a box colour that is only 2 shades lighter or darker than your natural colour. Trying a dramatic new look is risky and not recommended!

2) Follow the instructions carefully! Apply your colour only on the new growth for touch ups. Recolouring the entire head of hair every time will cause dullness and drying. If the colour has faded  all over, just apply the colour to the lengths  and ends of the hair during the last 5 minutes of processing.

3) Get a friend to help with those hard to reach areas!

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup Artist

Based in Hertfordshire

www.vicky-brown.co.uk

You Wear Your Hair Everyday; It Should Be Your Most Expensive Item Of Clothing...

Hair; Where to Save Your Pennies and Where to Spend

I often get asked for advice on products, techniques and styling by my clients, brides and bridesmaids; all worried that they could be doing something better. Here is my advice on what I believe is worth spending your money on and where you can save.

The Important Ones

Straightening Irons

Buy cheap, pay twice…Professional irons such as GHD’s are made to last, afterall in hair salons they are used continuously throughout the day and still give perfect results. Professional irons work better and faster and are therefore less damaging as you don’t need to repeatedly go over the section of hair, some even come with a temperature dial. I’ve had my GHD’s for 8 years…

Hair Dryers

Hairdryers can be deceptively damaging with cheap dryers getting unnecessarily hot. Professional blow dryers operate at a lower heat, which is gentler and works quicker. My favourite styler is the Babyliss Big Hair, which has a rotating brush to add volume and shine to styles and helps replicate a salon blow-dry. The large heat, speed and direction controlled ceramic barrel adds fullness and body whilst the soft bristles create ultimate smoothness and shine.

Shampoo and Conditioner

Buying professional shampoo and conditioner is really important, especially if you have coloured or damaged hair. If you spend a lot on cutting and colour services, it’s a good idea to keep your hair in tiptop condition and make the expense worthwhile.

There are some great websites that often have sales and gift packages available (try www.lookfantastic.com), which can make them more affordable. They will help reduce product build up, restore moisture, and protect colour etc.

Haircut and Color

You wear your hair everyday; it should be your most expensive item of clothing. You don't have to spend hundreds of pounds on a cut or colour, but try find a salon that has a good reputation. You get what you pay for, so if you care at all about your hair, I'm suggesting you avoid the really cheap chain salons and beauty schools, the little extra cost for a service will be worth it!  If your hair gets ruined at a cheap salon, you'll end up paying more than you would have originally just to get it fixed.  

Where to Save

Brushes and Combs

Unless you’re buying a diamond-encrusted comb, brushes and combs are generally made from the same materials and do the same job!

Rollers

Rollers have come back into fashion and for day-to-day use meaning process have come down massively. Velcro rollers all do the same job and if you can pick them up cheaply, go for it! Heated rollers still vary in price and it all depends on what you require them to do. I personally use the Diva Hot Pod Rollers (about £100 for the pod and set) because they heat up in 8 seconds and have 4 heat settings, which I require for the huge variety of hair types I come up against. Equally I have used the Babyliss Thermo Ceremic set (£29.99) which are also great…they just take a while to heat up.

Styling products

As a professional stylist, I chose to use professional hair products rather than the cheap ones as it’s all part of the service.  However, if you are trying to save money, it’s far better to use cheaper products than nothing at all.

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup Artist

Based in Hertfordshire

www.vicky-brown.co.uk