How to Bronze, Blush and Highlight

Confession: I've used to be a blush-a-phobic.

I have rather fair skin but have pink undertones and in moments of extreme heat or freezing temperatures, my cheeks always flush so I could never quite understand why I would want to add more pink! Don't get me wrong; I've known how to use blusher for years. I've been taught how to use it on paper and in practice and I've applied it to clients correctly for years too; but It's only been this year practising makeup for my own wedding that I've finally got it....I really get it! I love bronzer, always have and always will but rather than just coating myself with bronzer in the hope to look tanned and glowing from the non-existent holiday; I now see how blusher, bronzer and highlighter are made to work together.

Excusing the ridiculous faces I've had to pull to demonstrate how to apply it, you can see the difference it adds to skin tone and cheek shape...This is the best and easiest way I've found to teach and demonstrate where to apply bronzer, blush and highlight. Professionally I take a bit more time and use bronzer to contour other areas of the face too but for day-to-day makeup....this is the trick.

Bronzer or contour powder should create the effect of a shadow beneath the cheek bone- think Kate Moss and the hallowed cheeks of the heroin chic look from the 90's! We all have cheek bones... but some are just hiding a little deeper than others so to find where best to apply the bronzer or contour powder you can a) turn your face away from direct light to see where the shadow falls b) pull the silly face that I am doing in the below picture by sucking your cheeks in or c) draw from the centre of your ear down towards the corner of your mouth with the powdered brush.
I use Hula by benefit as it doesn't have any shimmer and is therefore quite natural. You can use bronzer with shimmer in it but it's going to be a little more noticeable.


Once you've mastered bronzer, the blush sits directly above this in a parallel line. Now you don't want streaks of colour so of course you'll need to apply this softly, don't forget that adding more is far easier than taking it all off. Some people apply blusher to the apple of their cheeks- this is when you smile widely and apply the blush to the rounds of the cheek and if this works for you, that's absolutely fine but I just find it a little old fashioned! I use MAC Springsheen or Pink Swoo, both very similar colours but I find they suit my skin tone best. You can use corals, berries or brown shades if these work better for your skin tone.

Highlighter is designed to imitate light and it should be applied to the highest point of the cheek which is pretty much eye socket bone (you can feel this with your fingertips if you're not sure) up to the temple. Highlight can also be used across different areas of the face but again, for day-to-day makeup I don't really have time to do this so best to keep it quick and simple...in-fact I don't always put highlighter on! I'm a fan of Benefit's High Beam or Lancome's powder highlighter.

There's no right or wrong with makeup so if your technique works for you, then that's great but I hope you find this helpful! x

Vicky Brown Hair and Makeup

www.vicky-brown.co.uk